Oysterette… just what is an oysterette? For Kevin Morrison, chef-owner of Tacos Tequila Whiskey (which most still refer to as Pinche Tacos), it’s a small, unassuming oyster house and fish shack plush with fresh seafood and a hearty beer list. Fish N Beer, Morrison’s ode to the oysterette, opens today in RiNo at 4 p.m.
There are oysters, of course, fresh-shucked, grilled, and fried, as well as prawns, Spanish octopus, crab cakes, grilled whole bass, and roasted halibut cheeks. But executive chef and managing partner Aniedra Nichols (who spent nearly a decade at Elway’s) doesn’t neglect the fish-adverse either. The menu is rounded out with dishes such as a coffee-rubbed New York strip, veggie paella, and roasted beet tartare (with a salsa verde-like carrot top pesto and smoked Burrata) that restores glory to the ubiquitous menu item.
For my money though, I’ll order the charcuterie board every time. The hearty appetizer comes with smoked fish dip, soy-glazed salmon collar, tonnato (an Italian tuna sauce), apple mostarda, giardiniera, and grilled bread. Spread, dip, and nibble your way through the starter. Sip a cold one (wine and craft cocktails are also available). Soon you’ll find yourself enveloped by Fish N Beer’s intoxicating vibe.
3510 Larimer St., 303-248-3497, fishnbeerdenver.com
—Photo by Rachel Adams