Justin Cucci, chef-owner of Root Down, clearly had a good time developing Linger, the latest LoHi hot spot.

Exhibit A: He designed the three-level space—located just behind the giant milk can that is Little Man Ice Cream—to take full advantage of downtown views.

Exhibit B: He took a cue from the building’s former occupant, Olinger Mortuary (Olinger–Linger, get it?), and incorporated playful mortuary-esque touches, such as putting the wine list inside a stainless steel medical chart and printing the dessert list on cardboard toe tags.

Exhibit C: He cut loose with the menu, a wildly eclectic mix of street food from around the world. I stopped in to sample the various cross-continental offerings, moving from a succulent lamb belly tagine with grilled apricot (Africa) to warm and tender steamed duck buns (Asia) and a New World take on Chinese dim sum that included spicy quinoa and shaved daikon.

Each one of the small plates—everything here is meant to be shared—was immensely satisfying in taste, texture, and presentation.

Tip: Although the restaurant is new, the buzz factor is causing crowds to converge nightly. Stay away from the bar, where service lags, and instead make well-in-advance reservations for the main dining area.

2030 W. 30th Ave., 303-993-3120