Deconstruction, Odell Brewing Company, Fort Collins

Style: Golden Ale

ABV: 10.5 percent

Serving Type: 750 mL bottle

Malty? Hoppy? More malt than you’d expect from a “golden ale”

Reviewed: August 2012

Odell categorizes Deconstruction, the latest release in the Brewery’s Single Serve Series, as a golden ale. Conceivably, the Odell brewers labeled this beer as such because it didn’t make sense to call it anything else. Deconstruction resembles very little of what you might think of as your daddy’s golden ale. And this is by design; the brewers got creative with this beverage. Deconstruction is created by blending a base “golden ale” with pilot batches of the same brew aged in various barrels and fermented with wild yeasts and lactobacillus, a bacteria that imparts a sour character on beer. The final concoction is something most unusual.

The beer pours a dark golden color with a big, almost champagne-like, effervescent head. Deconstruction smells tart and also wafts a thick, sweet smell—like a Granny Smith apple slathered in molasses. At first, the flavor is tough to discern. The brew has a medium to thick body and is highly carbonated. Deconstruction is barely tart. Instead, it’s reminiscent of a white wine that is both dry and fruity. There’s a malty backbone, too, which adds a buttery flavor. At 10.5 percent alcohol, though, this brew packs a wallop. Deconstruction isn’t for the casual beer drinker—it’s not meant to be—but experienced beer folks will appreciate the complexity of this “golden ale.”

Would we buy it again? We’ll look for Deconstruction the next time we need a beer to sip while celebrating a special occasion.