Coloradans may be feeling like local breweries are starting to lose their luster, with new taprooms popping up what seems like every other week. What distinguishes one from the next can vary from brewing styles to atmosphere to overall personality, and Mockery Brewing Co. has carved its spot in the middle of the road on all accounts. But mass appeal doesn’t mean the brewery’s lacking in character and attitude.

Location: Just a stone’s throw from Brighton Boulevard, Mockery is nestled on the northwest corner of 35th and Delgany, a slice of RiNo that’s still in development. Because its neighbors are mostly 9-to-5 businesses, the brewery is the only source of buzz for a few blocks. With the South Platte River just a block away and in plain sight, the rigidity of the surrounding old, industrial buildings is long forgotten.

Ambience: Following the architecture of its neighborhood, Mockery’s taproom touts industrial-inspired decor, with concrete floors, clean lines, and bright, high ceilings. On the left, a lengthy bar zig-zags from the front door all the way back to the brewing equipment, which acts as a focal point upon entry. A three-foot wall is all that separates the taproom from massive vats—no glass, doors, or barriers. To the right, a handful of four- and six-top tables are ready to host guests looking to chat or dive into one of the brewery’s many board games.

The path to the taproom requires a trip through Mockery’s moderately sized patio, a spot you’ll want to spend your upcoming summer afternoons and evenings. Handmade picnic tables offer an excellent place to gather as a group, but don’t crowd the graveled area; it’s divvied up well enough to equally provide seating, standing, and walking space.

Who You’ll Meet: Because the neighborhood hasn’t been entirely torn down for condos, restaurants, and coffeeshops (yet), a varied mix of beer fans typically fills the seats. Mockery’s proximity to downtown invites urban dwellers and corporate suits alike, while a few hipsters from nearby RiNo mosey over as well. Throw in the indefinable array of craft beer seekers and it’s easy to see that Mockery is a worthy attraction for all walks of life.

On Tap: One excellent aspect of Mockery’s roster is the distinct homage paid to each style of beer they serve; executions are bold and authentic, leaving no doubt in the care taken while brewing each batch. Suggestions for a sunny afternoon include the 4.9 percent ABV Lemon Zest Pilsner (light, slightly hoppy, and citrusy in olfactory senses only) and a flavorful 6.2 percent ABV Farmhouse Ale. For those seeking a darker or more complex pint, give the Oaked Black Pale Ale (6 percent ABV), Salted Scotch Ale (5.8 percent ABV), Red Session IPA (5 percent ABV), or Smoked Lager (6 percent ABV; think “wood chip” smoky) a whirl.

Make a Night of It: If you’re looking for a walkable adventure, the Source is a five-minute stroll down Brighton Boulevard. There, you can grab cocktails at RiNo Yacht Club and enjoy dinner at Acorn or Comida. If you’re heading over on a Friday night, catch The Big Wonderful’s Friday Night Bazaar, which hosts local vendors and live music. Otherwise, you can always grab some grub from one of the many food trucks Mockery hosts nearly every night of the week. For your entertainment, a collection of board games lives in the taproom and a game room with shuffleboard and several arcade games (with free play!) is just off the patio.

More: Available for just a few more weeks, Mockery’s unique Japanese Extra Pale Ale (with or without green tea) is a must-try for adventurous drinkers. It’s a medium-bodied brew made with pilsner and kolsch malts, but expect your taste buds to be most surprised by its thick finishing texture—the result of an American Ale/sake yeast blend and flaked rice. Combine that with the earthy bitterness of green tea (should you choose to opt in) and you’ll know you’ve experienced one of the rarest brews available in Denver.

Visit: Mockery Brewing is located at 3501 Delgany St.; 303-953-2058