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Olathe corn is everywhere right now—at the farmers’ market, at the roadside stand, and on the dinner plate. Although it’s a right of summer to simply shuck, steam, and slather each ear with butter, sometimes it’s nice to dress things up a bit. At Duo Restaurant in Northwest Denver, that’s just what executive chef Tyler Skrivanek does. Order the corn and charred onion fritters, which come three to an order, and you’ll see what I mean.
The idea behind the croquette-like appetizer came from head line cook Amy Pullman, who suggested the summery combination. Skrivanek expanded on the concept by adding a basil aïoli for dipping and a raw squash salad. Olathe corn shines in the dish, but the textures are what sing for me: the golden fried crust, the pillowy filling, and the fresh crunch of raw squash ribbons.
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Duo has featured some sort of fritter or croquette on the menu since the restaurant opened in 2005 under then-executive chef John Broening. Each time I visit, I order the latest rendition to taste the snack’s seasonal shift. This version is one of my favorites to date.
2413 W. 32nd Ave., 303-477-4141
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