The Local newsletter is your free, daily guide to life in Colorado. For locals, by locals. Sign up today!
As winter transitions into what promises to be spring, Theo Adley, the executive chef at the Squeaky Bean has rolled out a new menu. There’s a sablefish crudo with roasted pineapple, brown butter, and bee pollen that tastes ever-so slightly of passionfruit. And then there’s the newly launched lamb shank (pictured) that perfectly toes the line between the two seasons. The meat itself—not to mention its prehistoriclike appearance—is slow-cooked and hearty but the flavors burst with acidic-sweet pomegranate seeds, crushed pistachios, tangy yogurt, and bright herbs.
Adley serves the shank with cauliflower florets dipped in curried yogurt and roasted until they develop a golden crust. Combine those nutty morsels with a forkful of lamb and a swipe of the herbed French lentils that decorate the plate. Think of the dish as a chameleon: It’s as satisfying on a snowy night as it is on early spring evening.
That's only $1 per issue!
Bonus: Counteract the lamb shank’s richness by ordering the bagna cauda salad (pictured, background). Adley’s bitter mix of castelfranco, treviso, and cardoon is bathed in a classic Italian sauce of warm olive oil, garlic, and anchovies.
1500 Wynkoop St., 303-623-2665