El Taco Veloz, a bright, friendly, unassuming joint on Federal Boulevard is celebrated for its tacos of chorizo, tongue, stomach, barbacoa, chicharron, and more, but the $8 torta al pastor is a triumph.

A pillow-soft white bun is stuffed full of the Mexican version of shawarma, made spicy with guajillo chile, cumin, oregano, and achiote. It’s like a sandwich full of aromatic burnt ends; mayo, tomato, and greens round it out. Load up from a counter that has fresh salsas of any desirable heat, along with pickles and peppers. If you’re looking for a full meal plate, the list is long—pork ribs, Mexican steak, shrimp soup, menudo, chile rojo, chile verde—but that torta el pastor is one of the best sandwiches in town.

400 Federal Blvd., 303-825-2882