After a whirlwind three-day remodel, Deluxe‘s revamped dining room feels scrubbed clean and revitalized. With wide-plank maple flooring, shiny black trim, and luminous fixtures dangling above the high-backed booths, it seems brand new.

Truth be told, though, I can’t help but feel a bit nostalgic. I loved the worn leopard-print carpeting and retro decor that gave the South Broadway restaurant its sultry urban funk. But the floor-to-ceiling mural, which was discovered—and uncovered—during the remodel, keeps chef-owner Dylan Moore’s flagship feeling real, instead of gentrified.

Moore also has updated the menu and wine lists, paying just enough homage to the old favorites that the choices feel both respectful and fresh. Sadly, the monsoon dumplings didn’t make the cut (although if you ask nicely, they’ll bring you some), but regulars can still order the Chinese ribs and oyster shooters.

Surefire hits on the new menu include spicy skillet prawns with garlic, rosemary, and chile; buttery, pan-roasted sea bass on a bed of diced potatoes, Roma tomatoes, plump olives, capers, and basil; and a nicely nuanced bouillabaisse with hints of fennel and saffron.

Tip: Pair your seafood with a glass of Two Rivers Winery‘s Chardonnay. The clean-finishing Colorado vintage is on the new list.

30 S. Broadway, 303-722-1550