As someone who knows her way around a platter of calamari, I was pleasantly surprised to discover Jax Fish House‘s variation on the theme.

Served in strips rather than rings, this squid is crispy without recalling chicken fingers and chewy without being rubbery. But it’s the sweet and spicy mango-chile dipping sauce that’s the true standout: A swipe through the dip offers a zip of tropical flavor while cutting through any grease. Finishing it all off is a refreshing spritz of lime.

Bonus: The appetizer is just $5 during happy hour (from 4 to 6 p.m. every day) and can be prepared gluten-free on request.

1539 17th St., 303-292-5767