Shortly after Mercantile Dining & Provision opened in Union Station, I fell in love with the flaky and savory ham-and-cheese croissants. Baker Melissa Yanc was behind those buttery decadences, so imagine how pleased I was to learn that Yanc was taking over the Leaf & Crumb space just minutes from my house.

I made my first visit to La Fillette by Sugar Vision earlier this week and picked up more pastries than I should admit. Although those familiar croissants still had the just-right amount of flake and chew, I also discovered a new treat: On a whim, I added a slice of La Fillette’s still-warm-from-the-oven quiche Lorraine to the order.

Now, I generally think of quiche as a quick way to nab a somewhat balanced—if rich—breakfast. Yanc’s version was like nothing I’ve ever had before. It was custardy and deceptively light with a rounded flavor and spot-on crust. It was, without a doubt, the best quiche I’ve ever tasted. So, what’s the difference?

“Quiche Lorraine is pretty standard: ham, cheese, and some form of garlic and onion,” Yanc says. “I use leek because it’s in season and it’s not too oniony or in your face—it’s almost more floral.” OK, but what about that dessert-like texture, I asked her. I could hear her smile through the phone as she answered that La Fillette’s quiche contains more cream and egg yolks (along with plenty of whites) than traditional recipes—hence the smooth, pillowy structure. And then it’s baked low and slow for about an hour, almost like a cheesecake.

Since opening three weeks ago, Yanc says the quiche has been popular with customers. Nab a slice for $6 (a whole quiche runs $32), it’s a small price to pay to taste heaven. Just don’t forget to grab a croissant too.

Bonus: La Fillette, which means “little girl” in French, launches its bread program on June 16. Look for baguettes and sourdough boules, as well as two wild card options.

4416 E. Eighth Ave., 303-355-0022

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Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.