When iFish Japanese Grill & Sushi Bar opened in Ballpark two weeks ago, it did so in the space that crushed both Saucy, a Southern barbecue joint, and the downtown outpost of the late Brix. Here’s hoping chef/general manager Jake Rand’s sushi and seafood expertise can break the spell.

Rand certainly has the skill: He worked at Sushi Den and was head sushi chef at Elway’s Downtown before launching iFish. His focus on classic preparations shows in the sashimi and sushi offerings and in four signature rolls. Of these, order the Number 7 roll: The refreshing blend of tuna, avocado, and cucumber topped with jalapeño and cilantro makes for a kicky, warm-weather bite.

Where iFish really shines is in its à la carte menu of starters, noodles, meat, and fish dishes. I recommend the tempura udon, a comforting but light dish with two large tempura prawns atop brothy udon noodles and shiitake mushrooms. Take note, however, that the dish arrives with the shrimp already soaking in the broth, meaning you end up with soggy tempura if you don’t eat it promptly.

Tip: The restaurant offers a six-item menu from 10 p.m. to midnight. And the eats, which include pork fried rice and Japanese sweet potato chips, are solid late-night additions to the neighborhood.

2200 Market St., 303-708-1255

Daliah Singer
Daliah Singer
Daliah Singer is an award-winning writer and editor based in Denver. You can find more of her work at daliahsinger.com.