The once lowly street taco is enjoying its day. (For proof, look to Pinche Tacos on Colfax, which landed on our 25 Best Restaurants list and was named one of the 50 best new restaurants in the country by Bon Appétit magazine.) Downtown diners hungry for the street eat flock to Margs Taco Bistro on Wynkoop or Black Crow (the Rio Grande‘s answer to the food truck) on Blake. And two weeks ago, virtually across the street from the food truck, T/aco opened in the space once occupied by 8 Rivers.

T/aco, which also has a Boulder location, devotes almost its entire menu to the palm-size snack—and the pliable, nicely griddled tortillas alone are worth a visit. Fillings range from basic (steak) to more interesting (seared ahi or beef tongue). When I visited, I ordered the chicken mole, the carnitas, and the tongue (all pictured, from left). The chicken was the most successful: The earthy green mole sauce was deeply flavored, a telltale sign that the kitchen was patient enough to allow the painstakingly slow cooking process work its magic. And the toppings—chipotle salsa, shredded cabbage, crumbled Cotija cheese, and toasted pepitas—were all fresh and in proportion.

Tip: Don’t miss the salsas, especially the salsa verde and the fiery habanero. On the recommendation of my server, I mixed the fresh tomato (which was essentially puréed tomatoes) with the habanero to tame the heat and deepen the flavor.

1550 Blake St., 303-623-0330

—Photo by Rachel Nobrega


Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.