There is nothing quite like House of Kabob’s Persian eggplant. Superficially, it resembles baba ganoush, that Middle Eastern staple made with eggplant, garlic, and tahini. But this dish, a room temperature fry-up garnished with pickles and a sprinkle of lemony sumac and served with a basket of warm pita, has an unusual secret ingredient: beaten eggs, added at the last minute. The eggs give the dish a distinctive custardy richness.

House of Kabob has something else going for it: the spot-on, mostly Lebanese cuisine is executed by Carlos Ramos, a Salvadoran chef. The manager told us that recently, a put-together Lebanese professional from Los Angeles, where it is common knowledge that much of the Middle Eastern restaurant fare is expertly prepared by Salvadorans and Mexicans, sat down at a table and demanded to know where the chef was from.

She hesitated for a second. “Actually, he’s from El Salvador.”

“Perfect,” the customer said, and began ordering.

2246 S. Colorado Blvd., 303-756-0744