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If there’s one thing I’m obsessed with, it’s cookies. I buy them, I bake them, I dream about them. So when asked if I’d like to interview Christina Tosi, the James Beard Award-winning pastry chef behind New York’s Momofuku Milk Bar, I jumped at the chance. I already owned her cookbook—a wacky and whimsical collection of goodies including compost cookies, crack pie, and cereal milk. These are not your typical recipes: the book calls for ingredients such as potato chips, glucose, and freeze-dried corn powder.
My adventures in baking have yielded a few favorites, including the corn cookies, pictured, which Tosi regards as one of her most prized recipes. Picture a sugar cookie but swap the vanilla, cake-y flavor with that of sweet corn flakes. A bite is savory-sweet perfection. Tosi and I discussed this treat, among other recipes in August when she was in Boulder promoting Milk Bar’s new line of gluten-free and dairy-free cookies to Whole Foods.
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Fast forward a couple months. Milk Bar (and a few corn cookies) was on my to-do list when I traveled to New York last week. Just days before heading east, I received word that Kristy Greenwood, the owner-baker of Denver’s Victory Love & Cookies was debuting a corn cookie at her Highland shop inside the Denver Bread Company. While she credits Tosi with the recipe’s backbone, Greenwood has taken the combination in a more savory direction by adding paprika and black pepper. Her muse? Breakfast hash—yes, the meat and potato dish that, in Greenwood’s family, relies heavily on corn and paprika. Greenwood’s savory, buttery creations are called Cayuga Corn Cookies. They’re named for the area in Upstate New York that Greenwood retreats to each summer to relax—and to enjoy many hash breakfasts.
Victory Love & Cookies, 3200 Irving St. 303-455-7194