Foodies looking for the latest and greatest tend to overlook the Buckhorn Exchange. This is a mistake, since the Buckhorn, established in 1893, has had literally decades to perfect its Frontier, meat-and-potatoes menu.

Alongside beef, alligator, elk, and lamb dishes is a delicious, High Plains-buffalo prime rib. The slow-roasted bison, which comes from ranches in South Dakota, is sweeter and more tender than beef and much lower in fat. The Buckhorn serves its prime rib medium-rare au jus, with hints of garlic and Worcestershire sauce, and a sour cream-horseradish sauce with black peppercorns.

The 16-ounce portion is large enough to share with a friend.

Tip: Make reservations several days in advance. For a restaurant that’s almost 116 years old, business is surprisingly brisk.

1000 Osage St., 303-534-9505