If the Plimoth were a bar instead of a charming neighborhood restaurant, you might expect to see the Cheers team there nightly. Like Sam Malone, executive chef and owner Peter Ryan knows how to keep his guests coming back: fresh food, with drinks to match, in a homey yet vibrant setting. Diners flock there—reservations are a good idea—for the no-fuss (and no shared plates) menu of straightforward, well-seasoned New American fare. Suggested drink pairings are listed for every dish to make decisions easy. Choosing what to order—the cheesy cauliflower gratin or decadent chicken liver pâté?—is not so clear-cut. Ryan expanded his eatery into the former barbershop next door in June, increasing the number of tables by just a few but giving his mighty team of seven cooks more room to create. A restaurateur who takes care of his staff like that will also take very good care of you. 2335 E. 28th Ave., 303-297-1215

Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen

Denise Mickelsen is 5280’s former food editor. She oversaw all of 5280’s food-related coverage from October 2016 to March 2021.