Dining out is personal business—we all have our likes and dislikes, our expectations and pet peeves. But few dining experiences are more intimate than omakase. That’s when a diner relinquishes control to the sushi chef. What ensues is a customized meal built around what the chef believes the diner wants. This style of dining is the foundation of LoHi’s three-week-old Sushi Ronin.

Chef Corey Baker‘s menu offers multiple ways to engage in omakase, from a 10-piece nigiri option to a “deluxe set” with six pieces of sashimi, four pieces of nigiri, two handrolls, and one sushi roll. Although the framework is determined by the menu, the dishes are not. “I can customize [the meal] to the customer,” Baker says. “Things can change at any moment depending on what I can gauge and via information from the servers.”

If turning over complete control is too much to bear, Baker also lists a zensai (pictured), an appetizer trio option. “Zensai is only in more traditional restaurants; it’s a taster of not only fish but vegetables and different preparations on the more traditional side,” Baker says. The starter, which might include pickled fish or miso-marinated vegetables, changes daily and, of course, it also can shift on a whim.

2930 Umatilla St., 303-955-8741, sushironindenver.com

Follow food editor Amanda M. Faison on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.

Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.