Dining

Andrea's Homestead Cafe

Thirty years of bringing Bavaria to Lyons.

May 2009

There's a reason Andrea's Homestead Cafe in Lyons calls itself Boulder County's "best-kept secret." I'd lived here for more than a decade and had never heard of the 30-year-old German eatery before I stumbled upon it late last summer. Famished from a long hike, the husband and I turned off Main Street at the first restaurant we saw advertising breakfast. Expectations were low and appetites were enormous, so we barely took notice of the Bavaria-meets-Colorado decor, the live guitar player, nor the friendly owner-hostess, Andrea Liermann, greeting her regulars at the door. Instead, we focused on the extensive three-page brunch menu.

Like any good local brunch spot, the menu includes old Front Range standbys such as huevos rancheros and an omelet called the "Boulder." But it also has traditional German dishes: spaetzles and schnitzels, strudels and brats. There's even a German iced coffee (served with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream).

As a general rule, German food is rich, savory, and deeply flavorful, and on all these points Andrea's delivers. Owner Liermann was born in Bavaria into a restaurant family. Her ancestors opened their first brewpub and restaurant in 1709, and she grew up learning to cook family recipes hundreds of years in the making. "These are the traditions and flavors I now pass down to my customers," she says proudly.

Stumbling upon Andrea's is a bit like finding that little hole-in-the-wall on your trip through Europe: It wasn't in the guidebook, which makes the restaurant all the more delicious. Don't go for the glamour (there isn't any), but definitely check out Andrea's for the brunch.

216 E. Main St., Lyons, 303-823-5000