Eat & Drink

Home Cookin'

Frank’s Kitchen transforms an old Chinese joint into a homey staple.
January 2012

 

Every so often, i want a meal where I don’t have to decipher a menu, or find curly frisée on my plate, or even consider a wine pairing. These are the days when I turn to Frank’s Kitchen, an order-at-the-window spot in Whittier. It’s nothing much to look at, but that’s kind of the point. When Frank and Dina Berta took over the run-down Chinese take-out restaurant last spring, they scrubbed the place clean and set to making their food—cozy, home-cooked eats. The menu offers a mash-up of burgers, hot dogs, meatballs subs, jerk chicken plates, and street tacos—with the occasional banh mi special. Dishes are straightforward: Order a brisket sandwich at the window and a few minutes later, Dina calls your name and hands over a basket with a soft roll stuffed with smoked meat and a dribble of barbecue sauce. No frills, but the food is nothing short of perfect. Hedge your bets with a thick shake. 2600 High St., 303-296-3838, frankskitchencolorado.com