Sometimes, a loaf of bread is just a loaf of bread—but not at Basta in Boulder. The wood-fired piada (an Italian-style flatbread) represents the next domino to fall in the local food movement: grains. Chef Kelly Whitaker makes the entirely irresistible appetizer using mostly Colorado-grown varieties that the Basta crew mills and grinds daily. And it’s not just about the feel-good factor; it’s about taste, too. Unlike all-purpose flour, these grains—red wheat, einkorn, and wheat berries—retain a detectable, nutty wholesomeness that comes from the land on which they’re grown. “We’re not trying to be evangelistic inside the walls of the restaurant; we want it to be about the food,” Whitaker says. “But once we connect through flavors and you ask, ‘What is this?’—then we can have a discussion.” To further that dialogue, Whitaker founded Noble Grain, a nonprofit that supports the production and distribution of grains between local farmers, chefs, and bakers, in June. Ponder his mission between bites. 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, 303-997-8775

This article was originally published in 5280 October 2016.
Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.