Joshua Pollack’s maternal grandmother, Sherry Rosenberg, was a hugger. She was also a sassy woman who loved pistachio ice cream almost as much as she loved her family. “She came from the post–World War II generation that valued hard work and saving money,” Pollack says, “but she also appreciated the finer things and spoiled me rotten.” Now, Pollack is indulging Denverites with an ode to his “nanny”: Sherry’s Soda Shoppe, located next door to Rosenberg’s Bagels & Delicatessen in Five Points. The 1950s-style soda fountain spent six days slinging phosphate sodas, malts, and scoops before it was forced to close due to the pandemic, but the love didn’t stop then and there. Sherry’s continued to (and still does) offer pints of its ice cream at Rosenberg’s and Lou’s Italian Specialties (named for Sherry’s husband), and the shop reopened in June. Go for the rich pistachio flavor, of course, but don’t overlook the vegan peanut butter and Oreo ice cream or tangy raspberry-lime sorbet. Between two cookies, on a cone, or transformed into a sundae, Sherry’s treats are edible nostalgia.