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Chances are you’ve never thought of the tuna melt sandwich as fine-dining fare. And yet, there it is on Stoic & Genuine’s lunch menu, right alongside pristine seafood, caviar service, and boutique Champagne. The Union Station fish house embraces the cognitive dissonance by keeping the main components classically kitsch: Lightly seared albacore tuna is topped with melted American cheese and served on a toasted English muffin. A bright cabbage slaw adds crunch. As chef de cuisine Jorel Pierce tells it, he first tried a similar combo at an East Coast seafood shack and couldn’t wait to put it on the menu here. We’re glad he did.