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Row 14 had been open only a week when we dashed in to try chef and partner Arik Markus’ five-spice duck crêpes. Four months later, we’re still obsessed with the nuanced mash-up of Asian and French flavors and textures, which calls to mind a refined mu shu pork. Row 14’s starter arrives as two delicate coconut crêpes folded over a smattering of pulled duck confit, tinged with the cinnamon-anise notes of five spice. Crispy napa cabbage slaw and a judicious amount of hoisin cut with lime juice offer important, balancing brightness. It may not be dainty, but we pick up the crêpes for a better chance of scoring that perfect sweet-and-savory, crunchy-and-chewy bite. No one has scolded us yet.
Row 14 Bistro & Wine Bar, 891 14th St., 303-825-0100, www.row14denver.com