Few restaurants taunt customers at the request of ketchup and forks. But at Chicago Style Beef and Dogs in Lakewood, that’s just part of the package. The gruffness? Consider it the Margotte family’s Chicago import—along with Vienna Beef hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches.

Order a Chicago dog: mustard, relish (kryptonite green, of course), onions, sport peppers, tomato, pickles, and celery salt on the signature steamed poppy seed bun. If you ask for ketchup, expect ridicule. (Windy City relics—including photos of “the Coach” Mike Ditka giving the bird—adorn the walls at this no-frills spot.) From behind the counter, members of the Margotte family (there are eight of them) will sarcastically ask your age and point to a sign on the wall: “No ketchup unless you are under seven.” They’re serious.

The house-made Italian beef sandwiches are equally authentic: We’re talking soaked-through buns with thinly sliced, layered Italian beef garnished hot or sweet. Expect a mess. Avoid scorn and don’t ask for a fork.

6680 W. Colfax Ave., Lakewood, 303-233-0500, chicago-colorado.com


Our favorites: Chicago-style Italian beef $7.39; Vienna Beef hot dog $3.25; Chicago-style combo (beef and Italian sausage) $9.49; Reuben sandwich $8.49; Pastrami sandwich $6.99