How Uchi Found Its Niche in Denver

“Transplant” is an embattled term in the rapidly growing Mile High City. But one migration no one seems to mind is the recent influx of acclaimed restaurant brands—especially when they give diners a localized take on their fare, as four-month-old Uchi, of Austin sushi fame, has done. James Beard Award–winning chef Tyson Cole brings a dash of Southern hospitality to his Curtis Park stunner, where the staff hands out free snacks while you wait for a table at which to revel in the eatery’s signature nigiri, maki, and sashimi. Meanwhile, chef de cuisine (and Johnson & Wales University grad) Brandon Brumback also created a handful of Denver-only dishes. Paired with fresh greens grown by Uchi’s rooftop aeroponic neighbor, Altius Farms, Brumback’s exclusive menu items lend a little cachet and a lot of deliciousness to Cole’s first non-Texas outpost. In one masterful entrée, for example, “kombu” (sun-dried seaweed) is wrapped around Colorado lamb shoulder to impart its gently smoky, saline flavor as the meat braises for four hours. The tender result is served as a boneless, caramelized, crispy-edged rectangle resting atop a bed of buttery jade rice infused with Thai basil and black truffle. Garnished with coarse sea salt, candied cashews, and a salad of Altius’ bitter greens, it’s one of the many reasons why we’re glad to welcome Uchi to Denver.