It’s almost possible to forget the world for a little while when you’re at Room for Milly. Hand-painted De Gournay wallpaper sets off glittering bottles behind the bar, transporting you to an early 20th-century scene in India, a visual ode to the LoHi haven’s muse, a 1920s-era traveler-adventurer named Milly Parker. You’ll want to take your time reading through the QR-code-accessible menu, which is filled with sophisticated cocktails made from potentially mystifying ingredients that unfailingly delight in their execution. As you lose yourself in the lavish gallery wall behind the velvet banquette (or find yourself perched on the cafe-light-lined patio on Platte Street), try sipping on the Cottage, a blend of cognac, Aperol, fresh citrus, rhubarb, and cinnamon, fittingly described as “quiet and contemplative; the braided rug of life worn smooth.” The liquid loveliness pairs well with chef Chris DiMercurio’s playful small plates, in which he might shrink sausage-filled Wellingtons down to the size of playing cards or fry cauliflower into curried croquettes for dipping into Kewpie mayo. At the end of a summer including little to no travel, Room for Milly’s fanciful decor, drinks, and snacks are just the thing to satisfy your wanderlust and refresh your very soul.

This article was originally published in 5280 September 2020.
Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen is 5280’s former food editor. She oversaw all of 5280’s food-related coverage from October 2016 to March 2021.