The charcuterie plate has become as ubiquitous as the beet salad at many upscale restaurants. As with anything, some do it well and some, well, just go through the motions. The Nickel, the three-month-old restaurant in the Hotel Teatro, belongs to the former group.

Executive chef Chris Thompson, who hails from A16 in San Francisco, recently rolled out the Nickel’s salumi program. The menu functions like a sushi menu where you make your selections in the margin. Choose from an ever-changing array of proteins, including head cheese, La Quercia prosciutto, and pork rillettes (my picks when I dined), artisan cheeses, and house-made pickles. Given the chance, don’t miss the Four Fat Fowls, a spectacular triple-cream from the Hudson Valley. Round out the board with tangy pickled baby carrots and a seasonal jam (I couldn’t get enough of the bracing cherry mostarda).

1100 14th St., 720-889-2128

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Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.