You might not expect a less-is-more philosophy from an alum of Napa Valley’s three-Michelin-starred French Laundry. But you won’t find Jarred Russell, who took over as executive chef at 16-year-old Fruition late last summer, creating thyme-scented foam or freezing berries with liquid nitrogen in the Country Club establishment’s kitchen. Instead, at owner Alex Seidel’s classic farm-to-table eatery, Russell uses his love of working with local farmers and making ingredients shine with as few additives as possible to produce fare that’s approachable and injected with just the right touch of fanciness. That means serving dishes—such as asparagus with soft scrambled eggs and crispy prosciutto bits, roasted chicken with bacon-braised beans, and shrimp agnolotti with confit zucchini and basil—that guests can feel comfortable enjoying any night of the week. This summer, look for plates featuring tomatoes, melons, peaches, and other coveted warm-weather crops. “It’s all about simplicity for me, really,” Russell says. “What grows together, goes together.”

This article was originally published in 5280 July 2023.
Patricia Kaowthumrong
Patricia Kaowthumrong
Patricia joined the 5280 staff in July 2019 and is thrilled to oversee all of the magazine’s dining coverage. Follow her food reporting adventures on Instagram @whatispattyeating.